Over 20/25 movements. Compared to strength training endurance has its own intrinsic values and is therefore trainable apart, even though it largely depends on technique and flow (how can I last a long time, if every movement becomes a maximum effort, how can I last long if I climb badly?) Training for endurance entails a large number of consecutive movements, at a low intensity and with very long recovery. Training for endurance with partial recovery has caused a decrease in form which is not always followed by an improvement in form.
It is always important to keep in mind the following factors before starting an endurance session:
1) It partly contrasts with power training
2) It decreases one’s condition quite a bit, for the whole period in which you train and for a while afterwards.
3) Improvement happens only if you respect certain forms (ratio between volume/intensity/recovery)
4) With the majority of people it is a problem concerning technique
5) The majority of natural routes (crags) have good rest holds/jugs. These factors helps us understand that a) It is worth training endurance only if I have to compete on hard level routes,
b) If I have just started climbing (2/3 years)
c) If my aim is to climb a route consisting of many movements and with few rests.
In all other cases it is worth weighing up the pros and cons of starting a long endurance training session.
This is why I believe that THE HARDEST ROUTES ARE HARD ROUTES NOT LONG ROUTES (I can lift 1kg a hundred times, but that is not to say that I can lift 100kg once) To climb a 9a (5.15a) consisting of 100 movements is like turning/cranking a jack 100 times to lift a car. To climb a 9a of 3 movements is like lifting the car with your own two hands. Who can lift the car by hand is stronger, and if there is someone who can lift the car by hand 100 times, they are wasting their time because they could lift a truck once.
The training shown on this website can cause serious damage to your body, especially to your muscular skeletric apparatus, and in certain subjects it can also affect the cardiovascular system.
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