Being successful or unsuccessful in pursuing a training programme, excluding the quality of the exercises undertaken, is due to the amount and interaction between volume, intensity and recovery times.

There are three types of recovery:

Recovery between sets: in minutes

Recovery between exercises: in minutes

Recovery between training sessions: hours and days


There is also tapering, which is not total recovery, but a long period (weeks or months) of time where the total amount of training is diminished.

For athletes who have reached a good level, and who have mastered  remarkable technique, recovery is more important than training itself, little training maintains your acquired level even if it doesnít improve it. Too much training, on the other hand noticeably reduces your acquired level of fitness.

You can create havoc with your fitness level by training too often, than not training at all (i.e. climbing twice a week). By not training you donít improve, and our aim is to improve, therefore we need to find:

-The maximum load of training (quantity of workout) which does not cause over training.

-The maximum load of training which doesnít give me tendinitis.

Therefore for the above points, one has to stop just before breaking point.




Between reps of the same exercise

For short exercises (max 6/8 movements) of strength or technique, normally 2/4 minutes of recovery.

For endurance exercises (more than 30 movements) minimum 10 minutes recovery.


Changing exercise

When changing exercise a lot of recovery is required, you should take the maximum amount of time available for the total session, keeping in mind that if you go over 15 minutes, you have to recover actively so as not to cool down too much.


Between sessions

Sun      Mon                Tues                Wed                 Thurs             Fri                    Sat

The following could be a good way of setting your recovery: Sunday climb, Monday rest, Tuesday training session, Wednesday rest, Thursday training session, Friday rest, Saturday climb.  All this is ideal when one is not specifically training the production of endogenous hormones. In this case the recovery times between series and exercises is essential, and should be worked out with your coach case by case.






The training shown on this website can cause serious damage to your body, especially to your muscular skeletric apparatus, and in certain subjects it can also affect the cardiovascular system. 

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