TECHNIQUE AND FLOW

 

Anything that enables us to use our physical ability to our maximum (power, flexibility, and endurance).

In a few words we can say that:

 

TECHNIQUE = PERFORMANCE

 

A high level of technique will enable us to achieve high levels of performance and low energy use, in other words, what enables the climber to use least energy is part of “technique”.  Very approximately we can state that

 

TECHNIQUE= LEVEL ACHIEVED ONSIGHT / POWER

 

The aim becomes the method of reaching technique and flow.

      a)      To use automatically, and without the use of the brain, which would slow the movement down, which would cause our climbing to become tense and fragmented, (it should be like calculating the differential equation between centrifugal and centripetal force to know how far down to angle my motorbike as I approach a bend) as we search for a series of holds we undertake a set of movements (fundamental movements) in a natural, continuous, flowing motion.

      b)       To learn and then repeat many times a multitude of movements and schemes, which are in no way instinctive, to then forget them. To manifest them with your body, through your body, with an empty but alert mind. In fact our brain is too slow in terms of transferring information, whereas our body which has been trained sufficiently perceives movement by intuition, therefore it feels instantly what it is supposed to do.  This will occur if our minds are not too anxious since anxiety would inhibit our ability to move. (Flow is thus the sum of a lot of things that as often happens, produces a result that is equal to a lot of things + x.)

Bad use of technique brings disastrous effects i.e. if I forget to forget: I THINK THUS I FALL.

 

TECHNIQUE AND POWER TIED TOGETHER

Let’s not forget though that if technique is important our aim is to maximise performance not only achievement. Technique is alright but it cannot become an end in itself, because we would then reach the paradox of diminishing strength, to increase our technique, but staying at the same grade (for example: look at that guy, he is really good, he can climb 7a, and can hardly do a pull up.)

THERE IS NO POWER WITHOUT TECHNIQUE AND THERE CANNOT BE TECHNIQUE WITHOUT POWER.

Any car, if it goes at its maximum speed, dissipates energy and noisily burns. A Mercedes 5000, driving at 140km/h burns less than a Fiat 500 that drives at 140km/h. You might have super-technique without any strength, but if you have to push your limit to climb a 6a (5.10) you will be unable to express all your style/grace

TO INCREASE TECHNIQUE TO YOUR MAX + POWER = MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE.  

 

 

 

 

The training shown on this website can cause serious damage to your body, especially to your muscular skeletric apparatus, and in certain subjects it can also affect the cardiovascular system. 

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